Three off-the-beaten track Italian towns to buy in now
On the border between Tuscany and Umbria, this trio of chocolate box villages offer buyers all the perks you’d expect of ‘the sweet life’, with fewer tourists and competitive property prices
Many of us dream of a cypress tree-shaded veranda, a Tuscan olive grove or a view across Umbrian hills to call our own. Today, it’s an ambition that needn’t go unfulfilled thanks to a rare combination of emerging locations, renovated properties, easing of legislation and growing investment potential.
As Mark Harvey, Head of Knight Frank’s International department explains, the introduction of a flat tax by the Italian government in 2018, coupled with a thinning of red tape, has seen a surge in “remodelling, rebuilds, and new off-plan” properties in both Tuscany and Umbria. “People have jumped on European and government subsidies to upgrade houses to fit new environmental norms, and there’s more flexibility from local governments to reinvest and regenerate areas that have been neglected for years.”
The evidence is plain to see. Knight Frank’s 2022 Italian Prime Report found that Lucca, Val d’Orcia and Florence recorded price growth of six percent, four percent and three percent respectively in 2021 as demand strengthened. In fact, Tuscany accounted for two thirds of all enquiries for Italy.
While Tuscan towns like Montepulciano, Montalcino and Pienza command a premium, other villages near the Umbrian border offer excellent value to buyers – with much to commend them. Look beyond the well-trodden path and you’re now more likely to find contemporary homes with a classic envelope, within easy reach of the airports at Florence or Pisa. Here are three places to search for your own personal dolce vita.
San Quirico d’Orcia
Less than two hours from Florence, and only 15 minutes east of Montalcino, San Quirico d’Orcia stands at the head of Tuscany’s central Val d’Orcia, the first of many beautiful hilltop towns and villages in the area. It’s exactly what you’d expect – quaint streets, pretty buildings and immaculately kept churches.
For all its traditional, slow-paced character, it’s a year-round place, open throughout the winter. Officina del Gusto in the main square will start your day with pastry and coffee, and then spend time browsing the town’s many antique shops, wandering the formal gardens of Horti Leonini created in the 1500s for Francesco I de’ Medici or cycling part of the Via Francigena, an ancient pilgrimage route.
Those planning to spend more time than a week in the area will find clothes and accessories at Corinne, sheets, glasses and homeware at Dedalo, and books and work from local artists at the Vald’O concept store-meets-winery. Al Vecchio Forno, the restaurant attached to the Hotel Il Capitano, specialises in delicious pasta and various meat dishes, served in a beautiful outside space, while the Trattoria Osenna’s wisteria covered courtyard sits just off the main square.
Outside the town, the rounded chancel of the Capella della Madonna di Vitaleta, flanked by cypress trees on a hillside is a quintessentially Tuscan beauty spot. Go at sunset, and enjoy aperitivi, cured meats and breads at the next door Ristoro di Vitaleta.
Bagno Vignoni
Also in the Val D’Orcia is Bagno Vignoni, named for the thermal springs which are dotted in and around the village. Its immaculately shuttered windows and ‘olde worlde’ buildings in the distinctive warm yellow stone of Tuscany, create a picture postcard image, but instead of a paved square, the village piazza is a 49 metre by 29 metre Renaissance-era pool, built directly over the original source of hot springs enjoyed by the Romans.
While a dip in the village square might be a little too exposing (and hot), the pool at the Hotel Posta Marcucci, Val di Sole, welcomes non-residents. For something closer to nature, there are cascading warm waterfalls as you travel down the hillside to a natural thermal pool hidden in the woodlands of Parco Naturale dei Mulini.
Five star resort Adler has a restaurant with a roof that opens to the stars, as well as private access to thermal spas of their own, while Albergo le Terme on the central piazza is an excellent spot for coffee in the morning or gelato in the afternoon. For more everyday fare, Bottega del Cacio is the spot for sandwiches, wine and local products, and when the temperatures drop in the evening, wine bar Il Barrino serves cocktails with live music.
Citta della Pieve
Just over the border into Umbria is Citta della Pieva. Though the region is often overlooked in favour of Tuscany, it’s as beautiful and offers exceptional value for money – take a moment outside the Chiesa San Pietro at sunset looking over the valley below and you’ll be convinced. Citta della Pieva especially benefits from having more recently restored properties and good rail and road connections to Florence and Perugia, so it’s unsurprising that well-known names like actor Colin Firth and designer Tricia Guild already have homes in the area.
In fact, Firth’s former brother-in-law, Alessandro Giugglioli, is one of the owners of Quinto Sapore, a small biodynamic farm, selling organic veg boxes as well as olive oils, sauces and various other local products. Meanwhile, Bruno Coppetta’s saffron and artichoke risotto, a celebration of the town’s historic saffron industry, comes recommended, there’s Zafferano in the Hotel Vanucci, and Molino49 whose light and airy space is ideal for dinner and cocktails.
The town hosts festivals throughout the summer, and its historic buildings, winding streets known as vicoli and boutique-y galleries mean there’s plenty to explore. Most famous is the Vicola Baciadonne – the street of the kissing ladies – so named because of its narrowness. Pick up coffee at Bar Matucci and watch the world go by.
For current Tuscan and Umbrian property listings, contact Knight Frank’s Italian team.
